Day 4: Natchez to Canton


It’s still dark outside when the alarm goes off ... yes, I keep setting the alarm even though we're on vacation haha.
Bundled up against the crisp morning air we walk to the office where the hotel offers a free breakfast. It's more than decent  -- lots of options to choose from and I fix myself a plate with a DIY waffle, scrambled eggs on toast, bacon strips, yogurt and some slightly frozen fruit.

We’re making good time driving into town and I’m amazed at the lack of people – it was so crowded yesterday! Maybe everyone is still sleeping?

We even luck out and get a parking spot right near the bluff. It’s chilly so we decide to wait in the car with the radio on … and a short time later they announce that this morning’s balloon race is cancelled due to “high” winds. Apparently the balloons can’t fly when the wind exceeds 9mph.  :-(
 
At least we were blessed with a beautiful sunrise
 

A bit disheartened we drive through a deserted downtown admiring some of the historical homes, then head over to the visitors center where all the pilots are packing up their rigs. Judging by the pictures on their trailers it would’ve been so cool to see them all flying over the Mississippi ...
 
 

Since we are now unexpectedly a bit ahead of schedule we spend some more time exploring historic Natchez.
 
Orange glow is from the rising sun
 
Then we move on to one of Natchez' more famous homes, Stanton Hall:
Walk-in entrance facing the front door
 
Side view
 
Dunleith Plantation only allows you to walk their grounds if you've booked a tour of the house -- luckily we don't realize that until it's too late.
Love the columns
 
And in color
 
Trees reflecting in a sugar cane cauldron
 
Longwood -- the largest octagonal house in the US --  is next on the program, but when we get there the gate is still closed and we don’t feel much like waiting around. Instead we return to the visitors center now that the National Park staff is there to get my NP passport stamped.

Our first stop “on” the Trace is the Natchez Village site. Really, there is not a lot to see here; a small mound and a couple of reconstructed huts so after a few minutes we press on.



It's official:
 

There’s a sad family plot nestled near the top of the hill at the turn off to an Old Trace Exhibit. The graves are in poor condition, with large slabs of stone missing and for some reason it's mostly kids that are buried here.
 

Beautiful Spanish moss.
 
 
At 190ft wide and 60ft tall Emerald Mound is the 2nd largest burial mound in the United Stated.  It's baffling to think that it was all built without power tools.



We didn’t plan on stopping at the Loess bluff, but it’s more like a pull through so we stop for the obligatory picture. The area is actually kind of cute.
 

Mount Locust is the only surviving inn along the Trace, providing food and shelter to weary travelers. Nowadays it’s no longer in use, but the park service keeps it decorated the way it would’ve been back in the day.


Back porch

Cute antlers mounted on the front porch
 
The scenery around the inn is fantastic! We stroll through lush green fields with only rustling grass and birds’ songs greeting us.



Coles Creek is ok, but the banks are very steep so you can’t get down to the river.
There’s a relatively new trail about a mile off the trace called the Mt Locust scenic trail, but it needs some work; after walking a short distance our path is blocked by a large fallen tree. To make matters worse the last part of the trail is overrun with a low growing little plant that has left sticky seeds ALL over my shoes and socks. Yuck, I’m still plucking stuff from my socks when we get to the next stop. On the plus side it means we get to drive on a dirt road again … now our vacation is complete!
Experimenting with the editing software ;)
 
The next stop is a favorite with both of us; the Windsor Ruins. It’s about 15 minutes off the Trace, but well worth the detour. Windsor plantation was once a grand mansion. Unfortunately, it was destroyed by a carelessly thrown cigarette from party guess and burned to the ground.



Very surprised to see that the columns are made out of brick covered with plaster
 
 
An invasive species is taking over the landscape covering everything in its path; frightening but fascinating at the same time.



I love the sunken trace! A path worn so deep it leaves steep banks on either side.
 

Owen’s Creek, once a mighty waterfall, is now barely a trickle because of changes in the water level. Worth a stop? Questionable.
Water drips down slowly from a large shelf over a shallow pool
 
Rocky Springs is a veritable ghost town; only a couple of safes and cisterns remain of what was once a town over 2,600.+ Struck first by yellow fever, then plagued by boll weevil the town was doomed and the population dwindled to zero.



The church has held up quite well.
 

While we are there a large group of people on horseback show up. Initially we think they are the same people we saw riding along the edge of the road a while ago, but this is a different group comprised mostly of children -- all without helmets of course. There’s a lot of whooping and hollering, with Daddy instructing the kids to “just yank ‘em!” and “kick ‘er harder!” One of the boys decided it's more fun if you stand up on the saddle and then squat down, while two toddlers ride by doubled up on a very rotund and stubborn pony. It's like "People of Wallmart" on a trail ride.
Fortunately the picture is blurry (which may or may not be due to the fact that I was trying really hard not to laugh/cry)
 
To get to Vicksburg we need to leave the Trace behind and drive along Route 27, where a pleasant surprise awaits us; fields of cotton as far as the eye can see. Wow!



Vicksburg National Military Park is a battlefield park that in many ways closely resembles Gettysburg; there’s fields, cannons, and an abundance of memorials donated by the various states.

 
 
 
Beautiful vantage point over the glowing hills.
 

 
One of the Illinois memorials has an open in the center of its roof that allows in a lot of natural light. It also has a crazy echo that a couple of rambunctious children are more than eager to demonstrate by shrieking with delight. Ouch, my ears.
 
Beautiful mosaic.
 
 

Send a horse fanatic to a battle field and you end up with tons of pictures of cool horse statues


 

There’s also a Naval vessel called the USS Cairo. It was badly damaged and sunk during the war. They brought it the park to restore it, but for reasons unbeknownst to me decided to do only a partial restoration, which means you can see right through it -- like a naval skeleton. Except for naval enthusiasts there's not much to see here, but there's a place near the back of the boat where  -- when the wind is just right -- you can catch the smell of wood and it smells so good.
 

From the same parking lot you can walk, or drive, to the cemetery. The black and gold gates are really striking, but it’s hard to get a good shot while the gate is open so I pull it shut to take a picture while Sandy pulls up the car behind me. Of course, when I’m done with my picture and I turn back around instead of Sandy I find two other cars lined up waiting by the gate. Oops haha. Obviously we're not in DC anymore because no one even honked at me as I went about my business.
 

I prefer modern, ornate cemeteries but when you catch old military ones like this one at the right angle they are quite interesting.
 

View of the river from one of the highest points in the park.
 

Random memorial – at this point they’re all running together.
Note the kid dangling from the statue lol.
 
We make it back to the visitors center with just 3 minutes to spare; enough time for me to get my stamp and to pick up a park map (after we’ve just completed most of the loop going “Tour stop 1: something must’ve happened here …”, etc).

To save time we drive back along Route 20 which puts us back on the Trace around Clinton. There are a couple of stops in between that we ended up missing, but I think Vicksburg is worth a stop.

The sun is starting to set by the time we reach Barnett Reservoir Overlook and although I would have liked a good view of the setting sun, the pastel sky over the water's edge is very dreamy too.
 


When we arrive in Canton we ask the hotel clerk for dinner recommendations and she suggests either Mexican or an upscale place called Two Rivers. Sandy rules out Mexican and for some reason Two Rivers is closed for the night so instead we end up hitting my beloved Sonic. And yes, we tiptoed around to the hotel's back entrance to avoid being seen by the concierge who recommended those nice upscale places haha.
Tomorrow- day two on the Trace!

Breakfast: Days Inn Natchez
Lunch: assorted snacks
Dinner: Sonic
Hotel: Best Western Canton

Total: 248 mi


 

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